cat crochet
Free Pattern · Low-Sew Amigurumi · Beginner Friendly

Crochet Mini Plushie: One Pattern, Four Hooded Animal Friends

⏰ About 60–90 min per plushie 🧵 5-ply yarn, scrap amounts🧵 3.5 mm hook 👀 5 mm safety eyes📏 7 stitch diagrams
Your Starting Point

You have made one amigurumi before, maybe two, and the sewing-on part is the reason you have not made a third. Little legs that pucker. Arms that end up higher on one side no matter how many times you re-pin them.

This pattern skips that step. Feet and arms are crocheted straight into the body as bobble stitches, popped into place the moment their round is finished — nothing separate, nothing to attach later.

What follows is a crochet mini plushie hooded animals pattern built from one twenty-round body-and-head base. Change the hood, ears and a few lines of embroidery, and the same base becomes a duck, a bear, a cat, or a frog-hooded duckling.

Section 1 · Introduction

What Is a Crochet Mini Plushie Hooded Animal?

A crochet mini plushie hooded animal is a small amigurumi — about the length of your thumb once finished — built from one continuous body-and-head piece, then dressed with a separate hood, ears and a hand-embroidered face. Feet and arms are bobble stitches worked into Rounds 5 and 8, so the plushie comes off the hook already assembled.

That one decision is what makes this worth learning even if you know a dozen amigurumi patterns already. Most animal amigurumi ask you to sew a body, two arms and two legs together separately. Here, the body is the whole animal; only the hood, ears or leaf, and face are separate, and each takes under two minutes.

  • One base, many outcomes: the same 20 rounds become a duck, a bear, a cat or a frog-hooded duckling depending on the hood colour, ear shape and face you add.
  • Low-sew construction: feet and arms are bobble stitches worked into the fabric — the only sewing left is the hood, ears, leaf and final crown closure.
  • Finished size: about 8–9 cm (3–3.5 in) tall with 5-ply yarn and a 3.5 mm hook, hood included.
  • Skill level: beginner-plus — magic ring, increases, decreases, colour changes, the bobble stitch and simple embroidery, all in one small project.

If you have made any amigurumi at all — even a simple crochet octopus amigurumi — you already have every skill this needs. The bobble stitch is the only new move, and it repeats in the same shape both times.

Tip: make your first plushie exactly as written — the yellow duck with the frog hood — before swapping colours.
Section 2 · Supplies

Materials You Need for the Crochet Hooded Duck Bear Pattern

The materials list is short on purpose. One small ball of 5-ply (sport/DK-weight) yarn covers several bodies, and every contrast colour is used in amounts small enough to raid your scrap bin instead of buying new.

ItemAmountNotes
5-ply yarn, main colour~15 g per bodyYellow for duck, beige for bear, grey for cat.
Contrast scrapsa few metres eachOrange feet/beak, hood colour, leaf green.
3.5 mm crochet hook1Tight gauge keeps stuffing from peeking through.
Stitch marker1Mark the first stitch from Round 2 on.
5 mm safety eyes1 pairOr embroider sleepy eyes instead.
Craft gluea dotFor eyes glued on after stuffing.
Polyester stuffinga small handfulFirm fill keeps the head round.
Tapestry needle1Ears, leaf, hood border, tails.
Scissors1Colour changes mean several small cuts.

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Any smooth, worsted-adjacent yarn works, but 5-ply gives the tightest, most stuffing-proof fabric at this scale. To compare weights before shopping your stash, see the Craft Yarn Council’s standard yarn weight system.

Tip: wind each contrast scrap into its own tiny ball first — bobble colour changes go calmer without a tangled nest mid-stitch.
Section 3 · Stitch Guide

Abbreviations and the Bobble Stitch

Every abbreviation in this pattern is standard amigurumi vocabulary, with one new technique doing the heavy lifting: the bobble stitch, which builds the feet and arms directly into the body fabric.

TermMeaningWhere it appears
sc / inc / decsingle crochet / increase (2 sc in one st) / decrease (1 sc over two sts)Body and hood.
ch / sl stchain / slip stitchEars, leaf, hood border.
FLOfront loop onlyRnd 11 neck flare.
Bobble stitch(yo, insert, pull up a loop, pull through 2 loops) ×5 in one stitch, then yo and pull through all 6 loopsFeet, Rnd 5; arms, Rnd 8.
(…)×6repeat six timesEvery inc/dec round.

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Crochet bobble stitch diagram for feet and arms, five partial loops closed into one stitch.
The bobble stitch: five partial loops kept live in one stitch, closed with a single final pull-through.

Work the bobble like this: yarn over, insert into the stitch, pull up a loop, then pull through the first two loops on your hook — one partial stitch done, three loops left. Repeat that whole sequence four more times into the same stitch, without finishing any off, until six loops sit on the hook. Yarn over once more and pull through all six together. Give the bump a nudge with your fingertip and it sits proud of the fabric as a foot or an arm.

US vs UK terms: this pattern uses US terms. A US single crochet (sc) is a UK double crochet (dc); if you normally work UK patterns, read every “sc” here as “dc” — the loop count on the hook defines the bobble, not the label.
Section 4 · Sizing

Sizing Your Crochet Mini Plushie

This pattern is not written to a strict gauge swatch, but the finished size is predictable once you know your hook size and yarn weight.

  1. Swatch first: work Rounds 1–4 (6→24 sts), lay the disc flat and measure its diameter.
  2. Compare to the reference: the original Round 4 disc measures about 4 cm across in 5-ply on a 3.5 mm hook.
  3. Scale the hook, not the round count: a bulkier yarn with a bigger hook keeps the same 20 rounds but grows proportionally.
  4. Fit the hood last: finish the head, then fit the hood dome over it before the chain border — that step self-corrects most size mismatches.
Hook & yarnFinished heightBest for
2.5 mm, 4-ply/fingering5–6 cm (2–2.4 in)Earrings, tiny charms.
3.5 mm, 5-ply/DK (as written)8–9 cm (3–3.5 in)Keychains, bag charms, desk companions.
4.5 mm, worsted11–13 cm (4.3–5.1 in)Shelf plushies, sturdier gifts.

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Tip: stuffing density changes apparent size more than expected — a firmly stuffed head reads rounder and larger than a softly stuffed one from the same stitch count.
Section 5 · Step-by-Step

Crochet Mini Plushie Hooded Animals: The Full Pattern

Work the body and head in a continuous spiral, without joining or turning, moving your stitch marker into the first stitch of each new round from Round 2 on. The hood, ears, leaf and face are worked and attached afterward.

Crochet mini plushie hooded animals construction overview, seven stages from magic ring to finished face.
Construction overview of the crochet mini plushie hooded animals pattern, seven stages from magic ring to finished face.

Rounds 1–4: Magic Ring to 24 Stitches

Every animal starts the same way: a magic ring in the main colour, climbed up the classic amigurumi increase ladder.

  1. Make a magic ring in your main colour.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc into the ring (6). Pull the tail to close.
  3. Rnd 2: 2 sc into each stitch (12). Place your stitch marker in the first stitch.
  4. Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18).
  5. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24). The disc should curl into a shallow bowl — the base of the plushie.
Crochet mini plushie hooded animals pattern, Rounds 1 to 4 magic ring increase to 24 stitches.
Rounds 1 to 4 of the crochet mini plushie hooded animals pattern, the increase ladder from 6 to 24 stitches.
Tip: check your count against the number in parentheses at the end of every round — a miscount is cheapest to fix one round early.

Round 5: Bobble Feet

Round 5 is where the low-sew part of this pattern shows itself: two orange bobbles pop straight out of the fabric exactly where feet belong.

  1. Work 8 sc in the main colour, changing to orange on the 8th stitch.
  2. Work 1 bobble stitch in orange, in the next stitch.
  3. Change back to the main colour and work 5 sc.
  4. Work the second bobble in orange, change back to the main colour, then work 9 sc to finish the round: 8 + 1 (bobble) + 5 + 1 (bobble) + 9 = 24 sts, matching Round 4.
  5. Cut the orange yarn, leaving tails long enough to weave in.
Watch out: a bobble worked on the wrong side looks like a dent instead of a bump. Push each one to the front with your fingertip as soon as you close it.

Rounds 6–11: Bobble Arms, Then the Neck Pinch

Rounds 6–7 are plain single crochet. Round 8 repeats the bobble trick in the main colour for the arms, and Rounds 9–11 fold the body shut before the neck flares open for the head.

  1. Rnd 6–7: 24 sc each round, no colour change.
  2. Rnd 8: 7 sc, 1 bobble, 7 sc, 1 bobble, 8 sc (24) — arms pop out in the body colour, no cutting needed.
  3. Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18).
  4. Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) ×6 (12). Stuff the body firmly right after, while the opening is still wide.
  5. Rnd 11: FLO 2 sc into each stitch (24). Working the front loop only flares the fabric into a little shelf — the neck, and the start of the head.
Crochet hooded duck bear pattern body map showing bobble feet, bobble arms and neck flare.
Body map for the crochet hooded duck bear pattern showing bobble feet at Round 5, bobble arms at Round 8, and the FLO neck flare at Round 11.
Watch out: stuff the body before Round 11, not after — once the neck flares, the opening is too narrow to pack the lower body properly.

Rounds 12–20: The Head, the Eyes and the Final Close

The head is five even rounds, three decrease rounds, and a sewn close. This is also where the eyes go in.

  1. Rnd 12–17: 24 sc each round. Keep moving the marker up.
  2. Eyes: insert 5 mm safety eyes between Rnd 14 and 15, spaced to match the hood opening — or embroider them later instead.
  3. Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18).
  4. Rnd 19: (1 sc, dec) ×6 (12). Stuff the head firmly now, in small pinches.
  5. Rnd 20: 6 dec (6). Cut the yarn with a long tail, weave through the front loops of the six remaining stitches, pull to close, knot inside and bury the tail in the stuffing.
Closing the crown of a crochet mini plushie hooded animal, correct technique versus incorrect.
Closing the crown of a crochet mini plushie hooded animal, correct front-loop weave compared to an incorrect zig-zag pull.
Tip: embroider the eyes before the hood goes on — the hood edge makes needle access awkward afterwards.

The Hood: A Little Hat with a Face Opening

The hood is what turns a plain plushie into a character. It starts as a mini dome using the same Rounds 1–4 as the body, then switches to turned rows, which is what leaves the opening for the face.

  1. With the hood colour, repeat Rounds 1–4 of the body → 24 sts.
  2. Work 3 sc, then ch 1 and turn. The remaining 24 − 3 = 21 stitches stay unworked — that gap becomes the face opening.
  3. Rows 1–6: 21 sc across those 21 stitches every row, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each — each row spans the same 21 stitches, building up the sides and back while the 3-stitch gap stays open.
  4. Fit the hood over the finished head, then chain 5 or 6 and slip stitch to the other side of the opening, framing the face.
  5. Chain 1, cut the yarn and weave in every end.
Crochet mini plushie hooded animals pattern hood anatomy with turned rows and face opening.
Hood anatomy for the crochet mini plushie hooded animals pattern, showing the dome rounds, turned rows, face opening and chain border.
Watch out: keep the turned rows firm with a snug first stitch after every chain-1 turn. A loose turn leaves a floppy corner at the hood’s face edge.

Ears, Leaf and the Face That Decides the Animal

Three tiny extras decide which animal lives under the hood, each taking under two minutes.

Round ears (bear / frog style, make 2)

  1. Slip knot, chain 2, then 5 sc into the second chain from the hook.
  2. Slip stitch in the same place, chain 1, cut with a long tail and sew to the top sides of the hood, mirrored.

Pointy ears (make 2)

  1. Slip knot, chain 3, skip 1, sc 1 in the second chain, chain 1.
  2. Dc 1 in the next chain, chain 1, sc 1 in the same place, slip stitch, chain 1, long tail; sew on with the dc forming the point.

Leaf (for the apple-hood bear)

  1. With green yarn, make a magic ring, then (chain 3, skip 1, sc 2, slip stitch) ×3–4 into the ring to form the points.
  2. Chain 1, pull the tail closed, cut with a long tail and sew to the top centre of the hood.
Finished crochet mini plushie hooded animal with labelled parts across duck, bear and cat looks.
Finished crochet mini plushie hooded animal with labelled parts: hood, ears, arm bobbles and foot bobbles across duck, bear and cat colourways.

The face is five minutes of embroidery that decides the personality: a small diamond of orange satin stitches for a duck beak, a black “T” for a bear or cat nose, two or three short stitches per cheek for cat whiskers, and a couple of pink stitches under each eye for blush. Skipping safety eyes? A short horizontal black stitch on each side gives the same sleepy-eyed look. Knot every thread inside the head and hide the tails in the stuffing.

Tip: pin the ears or leaf in place and check the hood from a distance before sewing. Symmetry reads differently up close than from a metre away.
Section 6 · Tips & Variations

Four Animals, Troubleshooting and Care

Once the base is off your hook, the character is entirely up to the hood and face you choose.

  • Duck / chick: yellow body, orange foot bobbles, embroidered beak, sleepy embroidered eyes or 5 mm safety eyes, green hood with round ears or plain.
  • Apple-hood bear: beige body, red hood, beige round ears, green leaf on top, black “T” nose and mouth.
  • Hooded cat: grey body, blue hood, grey pointy ears, black nose, whiskers, blush — a different build to a full standalone cat plushie, since it shares this same body-and-head base.
  • Frog-hood duck: the yellow duck base under a green hood with two round frog-style ears.
ProblemLikely causeFix
Bobble looks like a dentLeft on the wrong sidePush it to the front right after closing.
Colour-change jogs showNormal spiral behaviourWeave tails to the inside once cut.
Feet or arms misplacedMiscounted sc before the bobbleCount 8/5/9 (feet), 7/7/8 (arms); frog back while cheap.
Head dents under hoodUnder-stuffed crownStuff firmly at Round 19, in small pinches.
Hood opening too tight/looseRow tension vs round tensionFit before the chain border; block gently while damp.
Last round will not closeTail pulled straight acrossWeave through all six front loops, then pull and knot.

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StageApprox. timeCare note
Body + head (Rnd 1–20)30–40 minSpot clean with cool water and mild soap; air-dry away from sun.
Hood (dome + rows + border)12–18 minBlock gently while damp if the opening needs reshaping.
Ears or leaf3–5 min—
Face embroidery + finishing8–12 minGlued eyes dislike soaking; let glue cure fully first.

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Tip: the hood hides the entire top of the head, which makes this one of the more forgiving amigurumi patterns for an uneven increase spiral. Nobody sees Round 3 once the hood is on.

Questions People Ask About Crochet Mini Plushie Hooded Animals

How big is the finished plushie?

About 8–9 cm (3–3.5 in) tall with 5-ply yarn and a 3.5 mm hook, hood included. Thicker yarn and a bigger hook scale the whole family up proportionally without changing the round count.

What exactly is the bobble stitch used for the feet and arms?

Five partial double crochets worked into one stitch — yarn over, insert, pull up a loop, pull through the first two loops, repeated five times — then one yarn-over through all six loops. It makes a round bump that stands in for a foot or arm, so nothing gets sewn on afterward.

Do I need safety eyes, or can I embroider them instead?

Either works. Insert 5 mm safety eyes between Rounds 14 and 15 before the head closes, or embroider short horizontal stitches with black yarn for a sleepy-eyed look. Embroidered eyes are safer for babies and hold up better through washing.

Is the hood optional?

Yes. The base plushie stands on its own as a plain duck, bear or cat with ears sewn straight to the head. The hood is an extra costume layer that also covers any unevenness in your crown increases.

Why does the hood use turned rows instead of continuous rounds?

Turning leaves a gap at the front — the face opening. Working the hood in full rounds would give a closed dome with no opening, and you would have to cut or stitch a hole into it afterward instead of building the opening in as you go.

Is this pattern different from a standalone crochet cat plushie pattern?

Yes. The cat look here shares the same body-and-head base as the duck, bear and frog-hood versions, finished with a hood and pointy ears rather than a dedicated cat-only construction. For a full cat-specific build, look for a pattern written around that single animal.

Can I turn the plushie into a keychain?

Yes. Add a short chain or a folded loop of yarn at the crown before closing the last round, then weave it into the closing stitches or knot it through a nearby stitch once the head is stuffed. Attach a keyring clasp once the loop is secure.

What is the fastest way to make several of these as gifts?

Batch the base: crochet three or four bodies back to back in the same main colour before touching a single hood. Switching between rounds and turned rows repeatedly slows you down more than finishing one full stage across every plushie at once.

The Whole Crew, One Checklist

Picture that shelf again: a yellow duckling in a green frog hood, a beige bear under a red apple hood, a grey cat peeking out of a blue hood — one pattern, not a single sewn-on limb. Run through this before you trim the last tail.

  • Magic ring closed tight; increases climbed 6 → 12 → 18 → 24.
  • Two orange foot bobbles at Round 5, two arm bobbles at Round 8, pushed to the front.
  • Body stuffed at Round 10; neck flared with the FLO increase at Round 11.
  • Head worked at 24 sts through Round 17; eyes placed between Rounds 14 and 15.
  • Head stuffed, decreased to 6, woven closed with no gap at the crown.
  • Hood fitted with a neat face opening and chain border.
  • Ears or leaf sewn symmetrically; face embroidered, blush added if you want it.
  • Every tail woven in — and a second plushie already queued up on the hook.

One Base, Endless Hooded Characters

Save this pattern and let whatever is left in your scrap basket pick the next hood colour — the same twenty rounds turn into a duck, a bear or a cat by dinner time. Already tried a low-sew build on a different animal? The crochet octopus amigurumi pattern is a good next stop.

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